etch. by Steven Edwards, Restaurant Review: The Discipline of Less
Cooking, as we tend to understand it, is an act of accumulation. Sauce on top of protein on top of purée, the whole edifice crowned with a scattering of microherbs, a drizzle of something acidic, a dusting of something powdered. More. Always more. The contemporary fine dining plate has become, in many hands, like a film with too many subplots, impressive in scale, but difficult to follow. We have come to equate addition with ambition, and restraint with timidity.
Which is precisely why walking i...